In the beginning…
The term "Elemi" is derived from the Arabic "Al-Lamy", meaning "above", and refers to a type of resin secreted by various trees, notably the Canarium luzonicum native to the Philippines. Over the centuries, elemi has played an important role in various cultures. It was used in ancient Egypt in the mummification process, for example, where it was used to protect bodies after death.
In the Middle Ages, Elemi was introduced to Europe, where it was used as a medicine to treat a variety of illnesses. However, it was its use in perfumery that really made this resin famous. In luxury perfumery, Elemi is known for its olfactory complexity and its ability to blend harmoniously with other ingredients.
Elemi cultivation
Elemi comes mainly from the Philippines, where the Canarium luzonicum tree, commonly known as the Elemi tree, grows in abundance. The trees grow wild in tropical rainforests, and Elemi is harvested during the rainy season when the trees are at the peak of their resin production. Elemi is grown mainly in the wild, without direct human intervention.
However, once the resin begins to flow from the tree, it is harvested by hand by local workers, a task that requires great care and attention to avoid damaging the tree. The resin is then cleaned and sun-dried before being packed for export.
What do you know about elemi in perfumery?
Once Elemi has been harvested, it undergoes a distillation process to extract the essential oil. It is this Elemi essential oil, and therefore the raw material, that is used in perfumery. Distillation is a complex process, requiring precise temperature and pressure to preserve the quality of the oil. The oil is then packaged in small bottles and sold to perfumeries around the world.
Elemi belongs to the embrés family of perfumes. Resins are known for their rich, complex fragrance, and Elemi is no exception. Resins are often used as base notes in perfumes to give weight and depth to the overall fragrance. Elemi has a complex fragrance, often described as a blend of lemon, honey and smoke.
More specifically, there are notes of mandarin water, floral, resinous, lemongrass, citron and zesty. Also pink pepper and herbal. Because of its complexity, Elemi blends well with a variety of other ingredients. It can be paired with citrus to accentuate its zesty freshness, or with woody notes to accentuate its balsamic depth. It also pairs well with spices like cinnamon and clove to add a spicy dimension to a fragrance. Because of its rich depth, Elemi is often used as a base note in perfumes to give durability and weight to the overall fragrance.
Some popular elemi perfumes…
• Eau Sauvage Parfum 2017 is a modern reinterpretation of Dior's classic Eau Sauvage, which was first launched in 1966. This 2017 edition, created by perfumer François Demachy, is an oriental woody fragrance for men that adds a touch of sophistication to the original formula. This men's eau de parfum opens with top notes of bergamot, a touch of citrus that adds initial freshness. Heart notes are dominated by elemi, an exotic resin with lemony, slightly spicy nuances that add interesting complexity to the composition. Finally, the fragrance's base notes feature deep, earthy vetiver and rich, balsamic labdanum, giving Eau Sauvage Parfum 2017 exceptional depth and longevity.
• Eau des Merveilles is an iconic fragrance from the luxury house of Hermès. Launched in 2004 and created by perfumers Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer, this women's fragrance is known for its innovative character and apparent lack of traditional floral notes. Eau des Merveilles begins with fresh, sparkling top notes of orange, lemon and elemi resin, which are quickly complemented by woody elements of oak and cedar. Ambergris lends a salty, mineral sensuality, adding unexpected depth and complexity to the fragrance. Pepper and vetiver add a spicy, earthy warmth.
Elemi X Bon Parfumeur
• Eau de Parfum 003! Yuzu, violet leaves and vetiver for a woody cologne... Our revisited version of Cologne. A sparkling, zesty start with yuzu, the Japanese cousin of lemon! Tones of powdery white flowers bring softness and elegance to this playful fragrance. Touches of elemi enchant and facet the woody, musky inflections in the base. A little mischievous, but always fresh.
• Eau de parfum 401! Cedar, candied plum, vanilla... A fragrant liqueur with fruity and vanilla accents. A fresh, pungent trio of cypress, elemi and bergamot to start. Then plum reveals sweet, bewitching candied fruit tones, balanced by the elegance of cedar wood. Vanilla adds roundness and sensuality to the assertive character of this creation.
