In the beginning…
Chamomile is a plant that has been used for thousands of years for its medicinal, culinary, and, of course, olfactory properties. Its name comes from the Greek "khamaimēlon," meaning "earth," due to its apple-like aroma. The ancient Egyptians, viewing chamomile as an offering to the gods, used it in the manufacture of cosmetics and perfumes. The Romans and Greeks, for their part, used this plant in their scented bath rituals and to flavor their drinks.
Chamomile cultivation
There are two main types of chamomile: Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) and German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Both are native to Europe and Western Asia. Today, both species are cultivated worldwide, including Argentina, Egypt, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, and Spain.
Chamomile is a hardy plant that grows abundantly in well-drained, sunny soils. It is usually sown in spring and harvested in summer when it is in full bloom. The flower heads, which contain the aromatic compounds, are carefully picked by hand or machine.
What did you know about chamomile in perfumery?
Chamomile flowers are primarily processed into essential oil through steam distillation of the raw material. This involves heating the flowers with steam to release the aromatic compounds. The steam is then cooled to produce a concentrated oil. This oil is used in perfumery due to its distinct scent profile.
Chamomile belongs to the floral family . It has a sweet, romantic fragrance, capturing the delicate essence of flowers. Chamomile essential oil is often described as having a grassy scent with notes of apple and tea. Its soothing scent is often associated with tranquility and relaxation. It is distinguished
- Blue chamomile: legume (artichoke), sweet (whisky), herbaceous (hay, pollen, clary sage), moist
- Roman chamomile: rustic aromatic (camphor), spicy peppery, fruity (pear) and resinous (rockrose)
Chamomile blends well with a variety of notes. In perfumes, it is often blended with top notes like lemon, bergamot, and green apple. In middle notes, it pairs well with jasmine, neroli, and rose. Finally, in the base note, chamomile blends harmoniously with sandalwood, amber, musk, and vanilla to give the fragrance depth and warmth.
Chamomile offers a rich olfactory palette which, combined with other notes, allows the creation of multifaceted perfumes, sometimes fresh and luminous, sometimes soft and soothing.
Famous perfumes with chamomile
Memory of a Gucci scent :
Launched in 2019, "Mémoire d'une Odeur" is a unisex fragrance created under the artistic direction of Alessandro Michele. It is characterized by its transcendental approach to perfume, seeking to evoke the power of memories. With honeysuckle at its heart, accompanied by notes such as Roman chamomile and Indian jasmine, this creation offers a mineral and airy freshness.
Sun of Jeddah by Stephane Humbert Lucas:
Stéphane Humbert Lucas, known for his opulent and luxurious fragrances, presents "Soleil de Jeddah" as an ode to the city of Jeddah in Saudi Arabia. This fragrance is an oriental floral composition, blending creamy notes of vanilla and almond milk with touches of lemon and chamber. It is a sunny and rich fragrance, evoking the Arabian sun.
Clinique Aromatics Elixir :
A classic since its launch in 1971, "Aromatics Elixir" is more than just a fragrance for many; it's a sensory experience. This floral chypre is distinguished by its dense, herbaceous notes, with accords of rose, patchouli, and chamomile. Powerful and mysterious, it has a distinctive trail that makes it instantly recognizable.
Water of Wonders by Hermès:
Launched in 2004, "Eau des Merveilles" is a woody oriental fragrance, renowned for its lack of dominant floral notes, which is quite rare for a women's perfume. It blends notes of orange, elemi resin, and guaiac wood to create a scent that evokes the sea, sky, and stars. It is an ode to wonder, capturing a sense of awe and magic.
