What does the word patchouli mean?
Patchouli is a tropical plant belonging to the Lamiaceae family. Its name comes from the Tamil words "patchai," meaning "green," and "ilai," meaning "leaf."
In the beginning…
Patchouli was first used in China over 2,000 years ago to treat skin conditions and digestive problems. It was later used in ancient India for its medicinal and spiritual properties. Its leaves were burned to purify the air and improve concentration.
Over the centuries, patchouli has become a popular ingredient in perfumery. In the 19th century, Europeans discovered the plant when it was used to protect fabrics and clothing from insects. They then began to use patchouli essential oil for its fragrant properties.
In the 1960s and 1970s, the use of patchouli spread with the hippie movement. The plant was then associated with counterculture and rock music. Today, in addition to being widely used for its fragrance, patchouli is associated with spirituality and often seen as a symbol of an alternative lifestyle.
DID YOU KNOW? Unlike many other fragrance ingredients, patchouli tends to improve with age. Its fragrance intensifies and develops further when exposed to air and light, making it a valuable component in aged perfumes.
Patchouli cultivation
Over time, patchouli cultivation spread to other Southeast Asian countries, including Indonesia, Malaysia, China, and Vietnam. Each region may produce patchouli with slightly different aromatic characteristics due to geographical and climatic variations.
The process of planting, growing, and harvesting patchouli begins with preparing the soil, which must be well-drained and rich in organic matter. Patchouli cuttings are then planted at an appropriate depth, usually about 60 centimeters apart, to promote growth and development. Patchouli requires a warm, humid climate and partial sun exposure. During its growing season, weeds are regularly removed and proper care, such as irrigation and fertilization, is provided to ensure optimal growth. After about six months to a year, when the patchouli leaves reach maturity, harvesting begins. The leaves are cut from the base of the plant and then dried under controlled conditions to preserve their characteristic aroma. Once dried, the patchouli leaves are processed into essential oil.
The different species of patchouli
Patchouli is primarily derived from the botanical species Pogostemon cablin, also known as true patchouli. However, there are other Pogostemon species that are also used in the perfume industry, although they are less common. Some of these species include:
• Pogostemon hortensis: This species, also called Java patchouli, is cultivated in Indonesia and has similarities to true patchouli.
• Pogostemon heyneanus: Also known as Chinese patchouli, this species is cultivated in China and has subtle variations from true patchouli.
• Pogostemon patchouly: This variety is often called wild patchouli and grows wild in India, Malaysia, and other parts of Southeast Asia.
Although true patchouli (Pogostemon cablin) is the most commonly used variety in perfumery, these other species can also provide different olfactory nuances and be used in specific perfume compositions.
GOOD TO KNOW !
In addition to having an interesting scent profile, patchouli also boasts numerous health and wellness benefits. The first are its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and healing properties. It is therefore regularly used in skin care products to treat acne, skin inflammation, scars, and other skin problems. Additionally, patchouli helps repel insects, relieves anxiety and depression, and even has aphrodisiac properties, helping to boost libido and improve sex life!
What did you know about patchouli in perfumery?
Patchouli is harvested, its leaves are dried, and then distilled to obtain a rich, earthy essential oil. This oil is used in perfumery to add a sensual, woody note to compositions, creating captivating and captivating eaux de parfum.
As a result, patchouli is widely used in perfumery to add an earthy, woody note to fragrance compositions. It is primarily used as a base note in perfumes, providing a strong, lingering foundation that supports and prolongs the other notes. Its warm scent adds depth and sensuality to the fragrances it contains.
In addition to being a base note, patchouli is also used as a fixative in perfumes. It helps stabilize the other ingredients and allows the fragrance to last longer on the skin. Thanks to its persistent nature, the scent remains present and recognizable throughout the day.
Patchouli is very popular in the world of perfume due to its unique aromatic profile. Its olfactory family is generally categorized as woody and oriental. Its scent evokes damp earth, moss, and undergrowth. Its woody nuances are reminiscent of cedarwood, oakmoss, and vetiver, adding a rich warmth to its composition. Patchouli also offers animalic notes that bring a sensual depth to its fragrance. Finally, a cocoa note softens the overall effect. For these reasons, patchouli is highly valued in the world of perfumery.
Ultimately, patchouli is known for its rich and complex olfactory accords. It offers an earthy, woody, and dark base that can be combined with a variety of other notes to create unique fragrance compositions:
• Oriental accords, such as vanilla, sandalwood and incense, thus reinforcing their sensual and mysterious character.
• Floral accords, such as rose or jasmine, to add depth and warmth to floral arrangements.
• Fresh or citrus accords, bringing a touch of depth and sophistication.
The legendary patchouli perfumes...
Today, many famous perfumes contain patchouli among their ingredients. Among them are:
• P atchouli - eau de toilette by Reminiscence is a fragrance for men and women launched in 1970 which combines patchouli from Java with the woody notes of cedar, sandalwood and vetiver from Haiti.
• Femme by Marcel Rochas is an eau de toilette built on an accord of notes of peach, plum and rose. Patchouli is used in the base notes and contributes to giving it a sensual scent.
• Antaeus by Chanel is an eau de toilette for men and a symbol of masculinity based on the alchemy of lavender and a leather accord enhanced with wood and spices. Notes of Indonesian patchouli help to enrich the perfume's torrid and exotic trail.
• Opium by Yves Saint Laurent is an iconic eau de parfum that embodies luxury and sensuality. With its warm and spicy notes of vanilla, amber, and patchouli, this women's fragrance creates a captivating aura that captures the essence of bold and mysterious seduction.
• La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain is an elegant and playful eau de parfum that combines fruity and gourmand accords of cherry with delicate notes of rose. Combined with vanilla and a base of patchouli, its scent evokes a bold and irresistible femininity.
DID YOU KNOW? Unlike many other fragrance ingredients, patchouli's olfactory properties tend to develop over time. Its fragrance intensifies and evolves further when exposed to air and light, making it a valuable component.
Bon Parfumeur patchouli perfumes
For those looking for a fresh scent, we recommend:
• Eau de parfum 004 : a Cologne built around a cocktail of spicy citrus fruits. We find a patchouli-tonka bean accord in the base that warms and gives the fragrance staying power.
• Eau de parfum 803 : Built on the image of a patchouli caught in ice, this perfume translates a real tension between hot and cold. On one side, top notes with a marine accent (sea spray). On the other, a combination of warm and powerful notes: patchouli, ginger, pink berries.
• If you prefer a floral variation, discover eau de parfum 101. This fragrance combines a floral heart of rose and sweet pea with the woody warmth of cedar, patchouli and musk.
• In the middle of this selection, the 501 eau de parfum will not leave you indifferent. Composed of a heart of praline and licorice, this perfume evokes our first childhood pleasures. Its base of patchouli makes its trail deliciously addictive and assertive.
• Lovers of woody fragrances will find their happiness with eau de parfum 602 : a fragrance with spicy top notes of pepper and pink berry that opens with a heart of neroli. In the base, essences of patchouli, vetiver and benzoin resin give this fragrance all its power.
Patchouli fragrances are also a great option for a mixed gift. So don't hesitate to create your own perfume set with the different options we've presented. A risk-free gift for lovers of this exceptional ingredient!
