In the beggining…
Chamomile is a plant that has been used for thousands of years for its medicinal, culinary and, of course, olfactory properties. Its name comes from the Greek "khamaimēlon", meaning "potato", due to its apple-like aroma. The ancient Egyptians, considering chamomile an offering to the gods, used it in the manufacture of cosmetics and perfumes. The Romans and Greeks, meanwhile, used the plant in their home for perfumed bathing rituals and also to flavor their drinks.
Growing chamomile
There are two main types of chamomile: Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) and German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla). Both are native to Europe and Western Asia. Today, both species are grown all over the world, including Argentina, Egypt, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy and Spain.
Chamomile is a hardy plant that grows abundantly in well-drained, sunny soil. It is generally sown in spring and harvested in summer, when it is in full bloom. The flower heads, which contain the aromatic compounds, are carefully picked by hand or mechanically.
What do you know about Chamomile in perfumery ?
Chamomile flowers are mainly transformed into essential oil by steam distillation of the raw material. This involves heating the flowers with steam to release the aromatic compounds. The steam is then cooled to obtain a concentrated oil. This oil is used in the manufacture of perfumes because of its distinctive olfactory profile.
Chamomile belongs to the floral family. It has a soft, romantic fragrance, capturing the delicate essence of flowers. Chamomile essential oil is often described as having an herbaceous scent with notes of apple and tea. Its soothing scent is often associated with tranquility and relaxation. A distinction is made between
• Blue chamomile: leguminous (artichoke), liquorish (whisky), herbaceous (hay, pollen, clary sage), humid.
• Roman chamomile: citrusy-aromatic (camphorated), spicy-peppery, fruity (pear) and resinous (cistus).
Chamomile blends well with a variety of notes. In fragrances, it is often blended with top notes such as lemon, bergamot and green apple. In middle notes, it blends well with jasmine, neroli and rose. Finally, in the base notes, chamomile blends harmoniously with sandalwood, amber, musk and vanilla to give the fragrance depth and warmth.
Chamomile thus offers a rich olfactory palette that, combined with other notes, creates multi-faceted scents, sometimes fresh and luminous, sometimes gentle and soothing.
Famous fragrances with chamomile...
Here is a selection of the best chamomile perfumes according to us:
Mémoire d'une odeur by Gucci:
Launched in 2019, "Mémoire d'une Odeur" is a unisex fragrance created under the artistic direction of Alessandro Michele. It is characterized by its transcendental approach to fragrance, seeking to evoke the power of memories. With honeysuckle at its heart, accompanied by notes such as Roman chamomile and Indian jasmine, this creation offers an airy, mineral freshness you may like.
Soleil de Jeddah by Stephane Humbert Lucas:
Stéphane Humbert Lucas, known for his opulent, luxurious fragrances, presents "Soleil de Jeddah" as an ode to the city of Jeddah in Saudi Arabia. This fragrance is a floral oriental composition, blending creamy notes of vanilla and almond milk with hints of lemon and chamber. It's a rich, sunny fragrance, evoking the Arabian sun.
Aromatics Elixir by Clinique:
A classic since its launch in 1971, "Aromatics Elixir" is more than just a fragrance to many; it's a sensory experience. This floral chypre is distinguished by its dense, herbaceous notes, with accords of rose, patchouli and chamomile. Powerful and mysterious, it has a distinctive trail that makes it instantly recognizable.
Eau des Merveilles by Hermès:
Launched in 2004, "Eau des Merveilles" is a woody oriental fragrance, renowned for its lack of dominant floral notes, which is quite rare for a women's perfume. It blends notes of orange, elemi resin and guaiac wood to create a fragrance that evokes the sea, sky and stars. It's an ode to wonder, capturing a sense of wonder and magic.
