What does the word vetiver mean?
The name “vetiver” refers to a tropical plant of the Poaceae family, known scientifically under the name Chrysopogon zizanioides, which is used in particularly as a raw material in perfumery. The etymology of the term “vetiver” comes from the Tamil “vetiveru” which means “braided root”? This name refers to the plant’s deep, fine, and intertwined roots, which are the part used to extract vetiver essential oil. Vetiver is grown in different tropical regions of the world, including Haiti, Java, Reunion and India.
In the beginning…
The history of vetiver dates back to thousands of years ago and has crossed cultures all over the world. The earliest references to vetiver go back to the ancient Indian civilization of the Indus Valley, where the plant's roots were used for their medicinal and aromatic properties.
Over the centuries, vetiver spread to other parts of Asia, notably Indonesia, Madagascar, and Haiti. It was cultivated for its roots, which are rich in essential oil, giving them a high commercial value.
The growing of vetiver
The main countries that produce vetiver include Haiti, India, Indonesia, China, Brazil, Reunion, Madagascar, the Comoros Islands, and Fiji. Haiti is known for producing a variety of high-quality vetiver. India is also an important vetiver producer, notably in the Tamil Nadu and Kerala regions. Madagascar is also famous for its vetiver. These regions are favored for their favorable climatic conditions for vetiver growth.
The vetiver planting process involves soil preparation followed by the planting of cuttings. Vetiver cuttings, taken from mature plants, are inserted vertically in the soil to a depth of around 15 centimeters, with 30 to 45 centimeters between them. After planting, the cuttings are generously watered to help them take root. Regular maintenance, including watering and weeding, is necessary for the first few months. As time goes by, vetiver develops a dense and extensive root system, helping to prevent soil erosion. After around 18 months to 2 years, vetiver reaches its full maturity, and the roots are carefully dug up using appropriate tools. The planting cycle can then be repeated with new cuttings.
Growing the vetiver requires meticulous care to preserve the quality of the roots and guarantee a high-quality essential oil.
What do you know about vetiver in Perfumery ?
The processing and the transformation of vetiver in perfumery involves several essential steps. First, the harvested roots are washed, dried, and cut into small pieces to facilitate the extraction process. Next, the root pieces are subjected to steam distillation. This process extracts vetiver essential oil, which is the component used in perfumery. The essential oil is then filtered and purified to eliminate impurities. The yield of this extraction is low: it is between 0.5 and 1%! We therefore need 1000 kg of vetiver roots to obtain between 5 and 10kg of essential oil.
Vetiver has a unique and recognizable olfactory profile. Its perfume is often described as earthy, woody, smoky with notes of nuts such as hazelnut and peanut. Vetiver can also have leathery, green and grapefruit notes in certain qualities. It is used as a base note in some perfume compositions to bring stability and a woody scent.
Initially more common in male perfumes, it is now present in certain feminine compositions and used regularly in unisex compositions. Despite its age, its use is frequent and is often combined with other woods and notes to add complexity.
It has given its name to a line of perfumes named “Vetiver”. For example, Vetiver by Guerlain was created in 1959 and features vetiver with notes of tobacco and zesty, spicy facets.
As well as a base note, it is often also blended with woody notes such as sandalwood and cedar, adding warmth and depth to the composition. It can also be combined with spicy accords, such as cardamom, pepper, or other spices to create a contrast between the freshness of the spices and the earthy, smoky facets of the vetiver. In the freshest compositions, vetiver can be combined with citrus accords such as lemon, grapefruit, or bergamot, creating a balance between the sparkling freshness of citrus fruits and the woody dryness of olfactory accords, bringing a complexity and a personality to perfumes.
Good to know!
Vetiver is famous for its numerous benefits and virtues. In terms of medicine, it is used in traditional medicine for its antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and healing properties. It is often used to treat skin infections such as eczema and burns. Vetiver is also known for its relaxing and soothing qualities favoring the reduction of stress, anxiety, and insomnia. Its scent is used in aromatherapy to favor relaxation and emotional balance. Furthermore, vetiver plays an important ecological role, by helping to prevent soil erosion thanks to its deep roots and by improving the fertility of the soils. Vetiver is a versatile plant which offers a large range of benefits both for human well-being and for the environment.
Some popular vetiver perfumes…
Today, many famous perfumes contain vetiver among their ingredients. Among them are :
• The eau de parfum Vétiver by Guerlain is an emblematic perfume from Guerlain. It presents a classic and elegant interpretation of vetiver, with woody, earthy, and fresh notes, creating a timeless composition.
• The perfume Grey Vétiver by Tom Ford is a modern interpretation of vetiver. It combines the freshness of citrus with the woody and smoky notes of vetiver.
• One of the first ever woody vetiver fragrances for women, le Baiser du Dragon by Cartier offers a eau de parfum perfectly combining woody vetiver notes with a more feminine heart of rose and iris.
• The feminine eau de parfum The Beat by Burberry is a feminine fragrance launched in 2008. It offers floral and fruity heart notes blended with a woody base, creating a modern and complex perfume.
• Terre d’Hermès, available in various versions (eau de toilette, eau de parfum, eau givrée…) has become an emblematic perfume. Created in 2006 by Jean-Claude Ellena, it showcases vetiver with fresh and fruity notes of grapefruit and black pepper. The spicy and woody harmony creates an intense, signature scent.
A component of eaux de toilette, eaux de parfum, cologne and house fragrances… vetiver is an essential ingredient in perfumery. It is also featured in niche perfumes as a solinote or as an accord with all types of different notes. Examples include Frédéric Malle’s eau de parfum Vétiver Extraordinaire, Serge Lutens’s eau de parfum Vétiver Oriental, Chanel’s Sycomore in the Les Exclusifs collection or Le Labo’s Vétiver 46…
Bon Parfumeur vetiver perfumes
At Bon Parfumeur, discover our new revisited Cologne with the eau de parfum 003. A green and sharp start is given by the violet leaf, yuzu and orange blossom. The top notes are directly contrasted by vetiver, grounding the fragrance. Elemi gives the heart a peppery and resinous aspect, lightened by the white flower.
On a different register, eau de parfum 601 brings vetiver to the fore, offering an elegant, timeless trail. A sparkling top note of peppery pink berry and tangy bergamot. In the heart, cypriol gradually immerses the fragrance in the earthiness of vetiver and cedar wood, which gains in smoothness with violet leaf and sandalwood.with tonka bean for a touch of sensuality.
